The T-shirt emblazoned with "guns and moses" sums up the potent emotional mix of religion and war that is so apparent here.
The Israel Defence Force is everywhere. Being a big military fan myself I have nothing against the generous scattering of uniformed men around. There are a little young though (19 -20..ahem..).
When I was at the wailing wall a girl soldier in uniform with V Beckham type shades on and an M16 slung casually over her shoulder sauntered down to murmur her prayers. The image of her said something profound and was strangely captivating.
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